TURKMENISTAN

Republic of Turkmenistan

Major City:
Ashgabat

Other Cities:
Chardzhou, Mary, Nebit-Dag, Tashauz

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report dated April 1997. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

Bordered by Kazakstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Iran and the Caspian Sea, Turkmenistan is in the heart of Central Asia. Long on history—Alexander the Great passed through (and, according to local legend, his horse Bucephalus was from here); the Parthian Kingdom, a nemesis of the Romans, was located here; and later the Silk Road passed through the area—Turkmenistan is one of the newest countries in the world. It is now struggling to transform its political and economic systems to meet the challenges of the future.

The most significant geographic feature is the Kara Kum Desert, which covers 80% of the country's total land area. During the summer, temperatures consistently exceed 40 degrees centigrade. Turkmenistan possesses significant natural resources. It has the fourth largest reserves of natural gas in the world, significant oil reserves, and a variety of mineral resources. It is also located in one of the world's high seismic regions and has suffered serious earthquakes.

MAJOR CITIES

Ashgabat

Ashgabat is located on the border between Turkmenistan and Iran, at 58° 20' E and 37° 58' N. Immediately south is the Kopet Dag Mountain range. To the north, on the other side of the Kara Kum Canal, lies the Kara Kum Desert. The city is in the foothills at an altitude of 775 feet. Ashgabat is the country's largest city with a population of over 460,000.

There are surprising numbers of trees and parks in the city, considering the inhospitable climate. From Friday through Sunday, wedding parties pose in front of the Magtymguly Statue (in honor of a famous 18th century Turkmen poet) near the Museum of Fine Arts.

The city boasts three small museums: the Turkmen History and Ethnography Museum, the Fine Art Museum, and the Carpet Museum. There is also an Exhibition Hall featuring works by contemporary Turkmen artists.

The Hippodrome on the eastern edge of town offers Ahal Teke horse racing in the early fall and late spring. A soccer club, Kopet Dag, plays in the stadium in the center of town.

Because of its history of catastrophic earthquakes, Ashgabat architecture tends toward low-level buildings; huge high-rise apartment blocks, such as those seen in many parts of the former Soviet Union, are a recent development.

Fifteen kilometers west of Ashgabat are the ruins of Nisa. This Parthian city was founded in the 3rd century BC. The palace fortifications are punctuated by the remains of a series of towers. Among the buildings that can be identified at the site are a palace, two Zoroastrian temples, kitchens, and a treasury.

Twelve kilometers east of Ashgabat on the south side of the road to Mary lies Anau. There are 3 mounds at this site. The easiest to spot is the site of a 15 century AD mosque which was destroyed in the 1948 earthquake. On and off, Anau is excavated by an American team from the University of Pennsylvania.

Food

Fresh meat, fish, poultry and produce are limited and often of poor quality. During the winter months, fresh vegetables consist of beets, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, turnips, tomatoes, cucumbers and onions. Fruit is limited to lemons, oranges, grapes and apples. During the summer, there is a slight improvement in selection, including eggplant, sweet peppers, melons, cherries, apricots and peaches.

The quality of the fruits and vegetables in the markets is low by U.S. standards, much of it being bruised or broken. Produce with broken skins not be consumed due to hazardous levels of nitrates, as well as parasites and worm eggs, on the surface of the fruits and vegetables.

Beef, lamb and pork are available in the local markets, though not always in familiar cuts. Because it is displayed in the open air, all meat should be cooked thoroughly before eating. Chicken and other poultry is of very inferior quality. Fish is rarely seen in the markets.

Milk, butter and cheese are locally produced but are unpasteurized, so are considered unsafe. Eggs are available, though they should be thoroughly cooked before eating.

There are a number of small Turkish-run stores which stock bread, juices and other canned goods, but the selection is limited and inconsistent.

Turkish beer is usually available locally, and Turkish wine can occasionally be obtained from local Turkish firms. Imported soft drinks are also usually available, although in limited flavors (cola, orange and lemon/lime).

Clothing

For the summer, bring lightweight, washable clothing. Cotton is the most comfortable fabric. For winter, bring sweaters, a coat, and waterproof shoes or boots. The streets are very uneven, so comfortable walking shoes are important for all seasons. Purchasing clothing and shoes locally is not an option.

Dress for work and social occasions is relaxed in Turkmenistan. Turkmen rarely wear suits in the summer, although most office workers do wear ties. Slacks and skirts are acceptable attire for women. Tank tops and shorts worn in public will inevitably draw unwanted attention and are discouraged.

Supplies and Services

There are dry-cleaning establishments, though they are expensive and the results are inconsistent. Shoe repairs are available, but materials are not up to U.S. standards. Repairs take a long time, are not guaranteed, and often require extensive paperwork.

Some household products are sold in the Turkish stores, but they are of inconsistent quality and are not always available.

Religious Activities

There are two Russian Orthodox Churches in Ashgabat which have regular Sunday services. Several large mosques are under construction. There are Bahai, Jewish and Christian communities, but none has permanent facilities for meeting.

Education

The Ashgabat International School, run by Quality Schools International, opened in September 1994. It offers English language education for students from five to thirteen years of age.

The curriculum includes English (reading, grammar, composition, keyboarding, and spelling), mathematics, cultural studies (history, geography, economics, etc.), science, computer literacy, art, music, and physical education.

For additional information contact Quality Schools International in care of the U.S. Embassy in Ashgabat, or by phoning them at 7-3632-445580. They can also be contacted by writing to Box 2002, Sanaa, Yemen (phone: 967-1-234 437).

Turkmenistan's public schools welcome foreign pupils. However, the language of instruction is either Russian or Turkmen. The schools are short of textbooks and all supplies. From an American point of view, the curriculum is rigid. The foreign families that have tried the local schools have not been satisfied.

Recreation and Social Life

During the racing season (in the spring and fall), you can watch the famous Ahal-Teke horses in action. While horses are for rent at the race track and at rental stables, they are not pleasure riding horses.

Just north of the city is a reservoir lake which is used for recreation, swimming, boating, sailing, and sunning. However, as summer progresses the water is increasingly polluted and it reaches the point where it is no longer usable for recreation.

Jogging is popular among foreigners, though not among the Turkmen. Joggers—especially women—should expect to draw much attention and occasional harassment. The Ashgabat Hash House Harriers meet every other Sunday for a family-style run through the countryside.

Bicycle riding is an increasingly popular sport and means of transportation, though in the winter the cold weather and slick streets could present problems. The city is very flat, so multiple gears are not necessary.

Entertainment

There are two drama theaters, one Russian and one Turkmen, and an opera/ballet theater in Ashgabat. Tickets are not expensive. The season runs from October to April.

There are three concert venues and classical music concerts are held frequently. There are movie theaters which show foreign films dubbed into the local languages, but they are uncomfortable and are rarely if ever frequented by Americans.

Some of the larger hotels have good-quality restaurants, ranging in price from $10-$30/person. (Dollars only can be used in the major hotels; none accepts credit cards and only a few accept local currency.)

There are other, smaller restaurants popular among the Western community. Most serve a variation of Turkish cuisine at very low prices.

Because of the lack of structured entertainment facilities, socializing with family and friends is the most popular form of entertaining.

Social Activities

There are few Americans in Turkmenistan, and no organizations which provide social activities geared specifically for them. A newly-organized International Women's Club welcomes women's participation.

OTHER CITIES

CHARDZHOU, with a population of 164,000, is Turkmenistan's second largest city. Situated in the eastern part of the country, on the border with Uzbekistan, the city is an important rail and cotton trading center. The industrial sector consists mainly of cotton, silk, and chemical factories.

MARY, located 180 miles east of Ashkhabad, had a population of 94,000 in 2000. Until 1937, the city was known as Merv. Mary is the administrative center of an extensive cotton growing region. Its location on the Kara-Kum Canal and on a rail line have made the city an important transport center.

NEBIT-DAG, which means "oil mountain", has been the center of the country's oil industry since the 1930s. The city is located in western Turkmenistan, at the foot of the Great Balkan mountain range. The 2000 population of Nebit-Dag was 89,000.

TASHAUZ is in the northern section of the country, on the border with Uzbekistan. As the only city in the region, it is a transport and administrative center. Tashauz has 114,000 residents.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Situated in Central Asia, Turkmenistan lies north of the Kopet Dag mountain range between the Caspian Sea and the Amu Darya River. The country has borders with Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan on the north and northeast; Iran and Afghanistan on the south and southeast. Turkmenistan has an area of 488,100 square kilometers or 188,417 square miles (slightly larger than the state of California).

The most significant geographic feature is the Kara Kum Desert. One of the world's largest deserts, it covers 350,000 square kilometers or 80% of the country's total land area. The temperatures in the desert stay in the upper 40s centigrade from June through August. The Repetek Sandy Desert Biosphere Reserve near Charjew, which was set up in 1928, monitors the unique desert flora and fauna found in the Kara Kum.

The Kopet Dag mountain range to the south forms a 2,000 meter high natural border between Iran and Turkmenistan. The stark slopes are home to a number of endangered species, including leopards and mountain sheep. Most of the mountains are inaccessible, as they fall within restricted border areas.

Cities, towns, and farms are confined to the Amu Darya (historic Oxus) river valley and to the narrow strip of arable land along the Iranian and Afghan borders.

The "silk roads" ran from the central regions of China through Turkmenistan to the Mediterranean coast during the ancient and middle ages. The caravans carried silk, tea, china and lacquerware to the European markets. Significant ruins related to these trade routes are located outside the present day cities of Mary (Merv) and Dashhowuz.

Precipitation in the inhabited regions averages 19 centimeters per year. Most of this falls between December and April. As you would expect in a desert climate, it does get very hot. In June, July, and August it is often uncomfortable to be outside during the day as the temperatures consistently exceed 40°C. At times in August, the "Afghan Winds" come from the east and the temperature can soar into the high 40's. However, by late September the temperatures cool and pleasant "autumn-like" weather prevails.

The winter, which begins in late November, can be chilly, wet, and muddy with temperatures between 0°C and 15°C in the daytime, with occasional light snow. Because the snow doesn't stay on the ground for long, the terrain on and near the Embassy housing compound can be quite muddy.

In Turkmenistan, there are the usual insects and snakes associated with a desert climate: scorpions, spiders, sandflies, cobras and other poisonous snakes. There are also mosquitoes and flies. All of the houses on the compound are screened and there have been no unusual problems with insects or vermin in homes. Care should be taken, though, if exploring the desert or countryside because poisonous snakes have often been seen there.

Turkmenistan is in one of the world's high seismic regions. During the past 100 years there have been four disastrous earthquakes with intensities of 6+ on the Richter Scale, each one resulting in great loss of life and property. In 1948, Ashgabat suffered a quake of tremendous strength. All but six buildings were destroyed and the entire city shifted two meters to the north. More than 30,000 of the 130,000 residents died and an additional 85,000 were injured.

Population

In 2000, Turkmenistan had an estimated population of approximately 4,436,000. The Turkmen trace their ancestry back to the Oguz tribe, one of the early Turkic tribes to move west from north Asia. The Oguz came to present-day Turkmenistan in the 9th or 10th Century A.D. That same tribe founded the Seljuk Empire and was the first Turkic group to colonize Anatolia. With the fall of the Seljuk Empire to the Mongols in the 13th Century, the Turkmen entered a period of tribal fragmentation and foreign domination which did not end until independence in 1991.

From the 14th to the 19th Centuries, the area was dominated by Persians (in the south) and the Khanae of Khiva and Emirate of Bokhara (in the north and east, respectively). Through it all the nomadic Turkmen tribes lived a largely isolated existence on the margins of the Kara Kum Desert.

The Turkmen were the last of the Central Asians to fall under Russian domination in the 19th century. The battle of Goektepe (some 40 miles west of Ashgabat) in 1880, ended Ahal Teke resistance and allowed the Russians to consolidate their Central Asian dominions. The nomadic life of the Turkmen did not change markedly under the Russians until the Bolshevik Revolution. Forced collectivization in the 1930s resulted in tens of thousands of deaths.

The Soviets were ambivalent about ethnic identification. At first, they did not recognize a Turkmen nationality and identified people by their tribe. Later, they created the "national" republics, largely as an effort to prevent the development of a pan-Turkic nationality in Central Asia. Since creation of the Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic in the thirties, the Turkmen nationality has been recognized in the USSR.

Today of the five or six Turkmen tribes which flourished 500 years ago, basically two tribes remain, each of them divided into two distinct groups: the Ahal and Mary Teke; and the Western and Northern omud. The Teke is the largest of the modern Turkmen tribes. Its two subgroups, however, share little in common and are political and economic rivals. The Ahal Teke occupy most of the Ahal Region, a populous area in the south center of the country which includes the capital, Ashgabat. The Mary Teke occupy much of the Mary region, located to the east of Ahal and bordering on both Iran and Afghanistan.

The western Yomud occupy much of the Balkan Region, which borders on the Caspian Sea. Their territory extends southward into Iran. The northern Yomud live in Dashhowuz Region in the north. The Yomud were separated in the 19th century during the wars against Russia.

Remnants of the other Turkmen tribes still live in the country: The Ersari in Lebap Region, bordering on Uzbekistan and occupying much of the Amu Darya River Valley, the Salor and Saryk in Mary and Lebap regions; the Choudour in the north and east; and smaller groups like the Alili and Ata. The emblems of the five major historical tribes (Teke, Yomud, Ersari, Salor and Saryk), best known from being the focal point of carpet designs, are preserved in the national flag of Turkmenistan.

The value that modern Turkmen place on tribal identity varies considerably according to age, location and social status. Not surprisingly, the young, urban and well-educated are less likely to consider tribal origins important than the old, rural and less-educated. Still, it is the rare Turkmen who completely discards tribal identity. Fully one quarter of Turkmen marriages in Ashgabat are between relatives, a clear reflection of tribal loyalty.

Accents, intonation, vocabulary, and grammatical style are strong tribal/regional identifiers. Dress, particularly among women, can be another giveaway: color choices, embroidery patterns, and jewelry styles vary from tribe to tribe. Names can also give a hint of tribal identity. Preferences for given and surnames and the use of name endings (-geldy, murad) vary from region to region.

There exists a small, but important, group—the russified Turkmen elite—which has genuinely lost most of its tribal identity. These Turkmen, many of whom occupy key government positions, speak Russian in the home and are barely conversant in Turkmen.

Turkmen social events revolve around the family. Memorials, weddings, and birthdays are celebrated with large parties called "toi." The menu for such occasions consists of traditional nomadic food. A favorite party specialty is dograma, a thick soup made from dry bread, raw onions, and mutton fat. A "must" at any Turkmen meal for foreigners is the local version of the ubiquitous Central Asian lamb and rise dish "plov."

Public Institutions

Turkmenistan formally declared its independence from the USSR on October 27, 1991. It became an independent state when the Soviet Union disbanded on December 25, 1991. President Niyazov, who was elected (uncontested) on October 27, 1990, was previously Chairman of Turkmenistan's Supreme Soviet and First Secretary of the Central Committee of the Republic's Communist Party. He won reelection for a 5-year term in June 1992. In January 1994, a referendum was held which ensured that President Niyazov will remain in office until June 2002.

Democratization in Turkmenistan has proceeded at a very slow pace. It remains as single party state, with the Democratic Party of Turkmenistan (formerly the Communist Party), chaired by the president, as the only registered party. Criticism of government policy is not tolerated and the press is completely government-controlled and tightly censored.

Most government power is vested in the presidency. There is no vice president or prime minister. The president is advised by a cabinet of ministers and a number of offices within the presidential apparatus. According to the Constitution, the Chairman of the Parliament (Mejlis) assumes the presidency upon the death or permanent incapacitation of the president and then calls an election to replace him/her.

The Mejlis consists of 50 members, half of whom work permanently and half of whom are called for short sessions two or three times a year. The Mejlis was chosen in December 1994 elections with only one candidate per constituency. While largely a rubber stamp for presidential decisions and decrees, the Mejlis is slowly developing into a professional parliament. Mejlis members serve for five years.

The Turkmen constitution adopted two traditional advisory/legislative organs. One is the Council of Elders (Aksakal Maslahaty) which is used as a sounding board by the president to validate policies. The other is the People's Council (Halk Maslahaty) which is identified in the constitution as the supreme representative body of popular rule. Chaired by the president and composed of ministers, Mejlis members, Supreme Court judges and some 60 directly elected members, the Halk Maslahaty approves policy directions and constitutional amendments. It meets twice a year.

The court system in Turkmenistan has not been reformed since Soviet days. It consists of a supreme court, regional courts (including one solely for the capital city of Ashgabat), and at the lowest level, 61 district and city courts. There are also military courts to handle crimes involving military discipline, criminal cases concerning military personnel and crimes by civilians against military personnel; and a supreme economic court, which hears cases involving disputes between state economic enterprises and ministries. The president appoints all judges for a term of five years without legislative review, except for the chairman (chief justice) of the supreme court, and he has the sole authority to remove them from the bench before the completion of their terms.

Arts, Science, and Education

Turkmen maintain the traditional arts of their nomadic and "silk road" ancestors.

Poets, both traditional and contemporary, have the status of national heroes. The work of Magtymguly, an 18th century poet, is especially honored. Turkmen love to recite poetry and use it often in their speech.

Folk dancing is highly regarded, and dancing groups make frequent appearances during local holidays and at important social events. Turkmen folk music features the "dutar," a two string wooden instrument shaped like a mandolin.

Silversmiths, weavers, and carpet makers are the most highly appreciated artisans. There are very few traditional jewelers left. Traditional Turkmen jewelry-making include fire-gilding, painting an amalgam of gold and mercury on the silver and then heating the piece over charcoal fire.

Carpets from Turkmenistan are known in the West as "Bokhara" rugs. They are made of wool or silk and usually come in various shades of red with white and black making up the tribal symbols and design. Their geometric patterns have been copied by virtually every major rugproducing country in the world. It is accepted that the carpets on the market now are of modern vintage, with genuine antiques only rarely found outside the museums.

There are schools of classical music (including opera) and dance in Ashgabat, and a regular music season in the winter. Unfortunately, none of the performing arts receives state funding so performances are often notable for their lack of proper costumes, instruments or stage props. There is a privately financed chamber music group which has concerts throughout the year.

There are two universities in Turkmenistan, the principal one being the Magtymguly State University in Ashgabat. There are a number of scientific and technical institutions, as well as training institutes for teachers.

The education system is undergoing changes, the most significant being a reduction of the number of years students spend in formal education. Students leave secondary school at age 16, and they complete university or institute training by the age of 20.

While Turkmen is the official language, there is a dual primary and secondary school system: some teach in Turkmen, and some in Russian. As of January 1996, education in the Turkmen language school system is compulsory through grade nine; in the Russian language system, through grade 10 (both equivalent, in theory at least, to a secondary education in the U.S.). The Turkmen Government has made the study of English a high priority, resulting in an increase in schools teaching English. There is one "magnet" high school where the entire curriculum is in English.

Commerce and Industry

Turkmenistan is rich in natural resources including natural gas, oil, iodine-bromine, sodium sulfate, salts, sulphur, potassium, gold, platinum, molybdenum, and coal.

Turkmenistan's major exports are cotton, gas, oil products, food products, chemical raw materials, and small manufactured products such as carpets, textiles, leathers, and furs. Major imports are machinery, agricultural and industrial equipment and vehicles, metals, chemicals, synthetic rubber, raw materials and processed products (nonfood), timber, paper, small manufactured goods and food products, raw material for food flavoring, and sugar. The country's major trading partners are Russia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Ukraine, Turkey, and Iran.

Natural gas was first discovered here in the 1960s. Turkmenistan has the world's fifth largest proven gas reserves and enormous unexploited oil reserves. These extensive and largely untapped hydrocarbon reserves promise to provide hard currency earnings in the future, and mining for precious metals and other minerals also hold potential.

Cotton production was increased during Soviet rule through extensive irrigation, albeit at the cost of environmental degradation. The government is now seeking ways to diversify agriculture and reduce the number of acres under cotton cultivation while maintaining current levels of production through increased efficiency and introduction of new technology. Other key economic sectors include textiles, Caspian Sea fisheries, and the production of karakul lamb pelts. Agriculture accounts for 25% of GDP and about 44% of total employment.

Turkmenistan is among the top ten cotton producers in the world and cotton provides 17% of GDP. Other important products include grains, vegetables, fruit, and livestock. Livestock accounted for nearly one-fourth of total gross agricultural production in 1992. Inefficiencies exist in processing agricultural goods: only 8% of fruit and vegetables, and 4% of cotton are processed, and much produce spoils because processing plants are located too far from the farms. The government is strongly promoting investment in cotton processing, with a goal of raising the percentage of the cotton processed locally to 15% of GDP. Agricultural yields are comparatively low, due to years of inefficient water use, salinization, inappropriate land irrigation, and overdevelopment of cotton cultivation.

The large degree of specialization of the agricultural sector has rendered the economy heavily dependent on food imports. Efforts are underway to make the country self-sufficient in grains and to introduce sugar beets to reduce dependence on imported sugar.

Industry is dominated by the extraction of fuel and minerals. Other industrial activities include textiles and chemicals. Industry accounts for only 19% of total employment.

Turkmenistan hopes to create a market economy with a strong private sector, with the state retaining control of strategic sectors (e.g., hydrocarbons). However, given the low level of industrialization prior to independence, and shortage of resources for investment, the privatization process will be a long one. Land privatization began in February 1993 and in December 1993 the government announced gradual privatization of the trade and services sector. In early 1996 the government announced an aggressive program of privatization in agriculture to begin after the 1996 harvest season. The transportation industry has been designated as the next industrial/commercial sector to be privatized.

Turkmenistan's major trading partners remain Ukraine and Russia, although trade with Turkey and Iran has increased significantly since independence. Turkmenistan's 2000 exports were valued at $2.4 billion and its imports at __BODY__.6 billion, yielding a positive balance of trade. It must be noted that most of the gas exports were to Ukraine, Georgia and Armenia which pay over time in a mixture of cash and commodities. The U.S. granted Turkmenistan Most Favored Nation (MFN) trading status in October 1993, but bilateral trade remains quite low although there are no significant trade barriers. In 1995 Turkmenistan exported goods valued at $23 million to the U.S. and imported $14 million of goods from the U.S.

Turkmenistan has agreements with the World Bank, the IMF, the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development, the Asian Development Bank, the Islamic Development Bank. Among U.S. institutions Turkmenistan has agreements with the Export-Import Bank, the Overseas Private Investment Corporation and the Trade and Development Agency.

Transportation

Local

Taxis are available in Ashgabat, but they are not recommended. There have been numerous reported incidents of both men and women passengers being molested or mugged by local taxi drivers.

Ashgabat has a shortage of public transportation, due to the poor condition of the buses. Bus service is available to cities outside of Ashgabat, but the buses are overcrowded and uncomfortable. There is no bus service from the city center to the housing compound.

Regional

Traffic in Turkmenistan may not be as bad as you have experienced in other developing countries. Generally, drivers adhere to traffic signals and speed limits, though they don't always stay in the proper lanes! The main city streets are very well maintained. Side streets can be dangerously ill-kept, however, with open man holes, huge potholes, no lighting and other obstacles. Pedestrian traffic can also present a hazard, as individuals stand well into the roadway hitching rides or hailing taxis.

Major intercity highways are in reasonable shape, but can be very dangerous, particularly at night when there is no lighting whatsoever. No driving be done outside the city after dark. Long vehicle trips should not be undertaken alone.

There are four land routes out of Ashgabat. For Americans, the road to the south stops at the Iranian border. The road to the west leads to the Caspian Sea, an eight-hour drive through the desert. The northern road goes directly across the Kara-Kum, ending six hours later in Dashhowuz. The road to the east leads to Mary, Turkmenistan's second largest city, near the site of ancient Merv (5 hours by car).

It is possible to take trains across the country, but they are in bad condition. They are not air-conditioned, there is no food or drink available, and the toilets are unusable.

Flights within the country and the CIS region are possible via Turkmen Airlines. Many of their planes are former Soviet aircraft and can be quite uncomfortable, although new Boeing 737 and 757 aircraft service major international routes (Istanbul, New Delhi, London, Abu Dhabi). Their safety record is good, though they can be quite unreliable, with last-minute cancellations leaving travelers stranded until the next available flight. However, the flights within the country, and even on the limited routes to neighboring countries, are frequent and inexpensive.

Turkish Air flies four times a week to Istanbul; Lufthansa has a twice weekly flight to Frankfurt; and PIA flies to several cities in Pakistan

Communications

Telephone and Telegraph

Direct dialing and operator assisted calls can be made from Turkmenistan though both methods are very expensive ($4.00-7.00/minute). Fax is also available.

Radio and TV

Local television programs are in either Turkmen or Russian, as are the local radio broadcasts. A multisystem or PAL/Secam television set is necessary to receive these broadcasts.

BBC and VOA can be heard, but the reception is very poor.

Newspapers, Magazines and Technical Journals

There are no locally published English-language newspapers or magazines, and only rarely is English reading material sold in bookstores. Some hotels carry limited English-language newspapers (e.g., USA Today), but generally, such material is unavailable.

The local press does not subscribe to international news wire services, and carries scant international news.

The National Library has a collection of several thousand books and a number of dated magazines in English in its foreign language collection. The University also has English-language books in its library, primarily for the use of its foreign language students.

Health and Medicine

Medical Facilities

Local medical care and facilities are extremely poor, due to lack of equipment, staff and sanitary conditions. The VIP Hospital, considered the best in Ashgabat, is considered one of the poorest in the former Soviet Union.

Local dentistry lacks modern techniques, equipment, medication, and basic sanitation.

Community Health

Community sanitation levels are low. Tap water is not potable, and restaurant food is often of questionable safety. There have been cases of Typhoid, as well as numerous incidents of E. coli contamination and other gastrointestinal ailments. Care should be taken in eating in restaurants, and all produce should be soaked in iodine or bleach tablets before consumption at home.

Western standards of public cleanliness are not observed in Turkmenistan. Public toilets are in poor condition and those on planes and trains are often virtually unusable. Though the main streets are swept each day, on the side streets garbage is often placed unwrapped in open containers outside residential buildings for collection once a week.

Turkmenistan's health indicators are among the worst in the former Soviet Republics. Infant mortality is reported to be 50 per 1,000 and anemia is common. There is a high rate of Hepatitis A and B. Amoebas and gastroenteric disease is common. Cutaneous Leishmaniasis, a parasite quite common throughout Central Asia spread by sandfly bites, is prevalent. Typhus, spread by body lice, and crub Typhus, spread by mites, are both considered endemic in Turkmenistan. Rabies is present in Ashgabat.

At a minimum this includes Hepatitis A and B, Typhus, Typhoid, Diphtheria/Tetanus and Rabies.

Leishmania is a parasite found throughout Central Asia. It is quite common and is spread by sandfly bites. Typhus, a disease spread by body lice, and Scrub Typhus, spread by mites, are both considered endemic in Turkmenistan. Hepatitis A and other water borne diseases are common. In general, the immunization status is lower than in the U.S., and everyone coming to Ashgabat should have all routine vaccinations before arrival.

Preventative Measures

The water is considered dangerously contaminated. Foodstuffs can be exposed to a variety of contaminating agents, such as flies and rodents. Due to unregulated pesticide and fertilizer use there is a hazardous nitrate level on fruits and vegetables. Therefore, personnel are advised to buy only undamaged fruit and vegetables and clean them carefully with a mild detergent, followed by soaking in a chlorine solution for 15 minutes, then rinsing with potable water before consuming or storing in the refrigerator. Raw meat should be purchased as early in the day as possible to avoid contamination, and should be cooked thoroughly before consuming.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

Turkish Air, Lufthansa and Pakistan Air fly from various locations to Ashgabat. The most common route from the U.S. is through a European transit point (usually Frankfurt) to Istanbul, then to Ashgabat on Turkish Air.

American citizens must have a valid passport and visa to enter and exit Turkmenistan. To apply for a visa, all U.S. citizens must complete an application and have a letter of invitation approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA) in Ashgabat. A letter of invitation must be submitted to the MFA on behalf of an American citizen by an individual or organization in Turkmenistan. The MFA requires at least ten working days for approval. The U.S. Embassy in Ashgabat does not issue letters of invitation to citizens interested in private travel to Turkmenistan. Applications for a Turkmen visa can be submitted to the Turkmen Embassy in Washington, D.C. or directly to the MFA in Ashgabat. Recent travelers to Turkmenistan have found it difficult to secure visa issuance from the Embassy of Turkmenistan in Washington, D.C. A traveler with a stamped and approved invitation letter from the MFA may also obtain a visa at the Ashgabat Airport upon arrival in Turkmenistan.

The price for the visa will vary according to the intended length of stay. The visa can be extended from its initial validity for any period of time up to one year at the MFA in Ashgabat for an additional charge. Any traveler arriving without a visa or without the needed documents to obtain a visa will be denied entry and may be held at the airport or border until the traveler has secured transportation out of Turkmenistan. Travelers departing Turkmenistan must have a valid visa or they will be denied exit while they extend the validity of the visa. In addition, U.S. citizens traveling in Turkmenistan should be aware that they may require special permission from the MFA to travel to some areas of the country that have been restricted by the Government of Turkmenistan.

For complete information concerning entry and exit requirements, as well as internal travel restrictions, U.S. citizens should contact the Embassy of Turkmenistan at 2207 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington D.C. 20008, telephone (202) 588-1500. The Embassy may also be reached at its homepage on the Internet: http://www.turkmenistanembassy.org.

There are local Turkmen registration requirements. Americans who plan to stay more than five days in Turkmenistan must register with the Office of Visas and Registration (OVIR). OVIR offices are located in all of Turkmenistan's five major cities: Ashgabat, Dashoguz, Mary, Turkmenabat and Turkmenbashi. Visitors who do not register may have to pay fines upon departure. According to the MFA, all foreigners staying in Turkmenistan more than 3 months must be tested for HIV. Testing should be performed upon arrival in Turkmenistan. Before extending a visa, the MFA requires a certificate from the Blood Transfusion Center located on 53 Gerogly Street, Ashgabat. U.S. test results are not accepted. Previous travelers have reported sporadic enforcement of this regulation.

Turkmenistan customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Turkmenistan of items such as carpets, jewelry, musical instruments, pieces of art, archaeological artifacts, antiques, etc. It is advisable to contact the Embassy of Turkmenistan in Washington, D.C. for specific information regarding customs requirements. Travelers who want to take carpets out of Turkmenistan must obtain a certificate from the Carpet Museum in central Ashgabat indicating that the carpet is not of historical value. In addition, buyers may have to pay a tax calculated on the size of the carpet.

Americans living in or visiting Turkmenistan are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Ashgabat to obtain updated information on travel and security within Turkmenistan. Registration with the Embassy can assure quick communication during an emergency and help replacement of a lost and/or stolen passport. The U.S. Embassy is located at 9 Pushkin Street, off Magtymguly Street, tel. (993-12) 35-w00-45; fax (993-12) 51-13-05. The Consular Section can also be contacted by e-mail at: consularashgab@state.gov. The Embassy's Internet address is http://www.usemb-ashgabat.usia.co.at/

Pets

There is no quarantine requirement in Turkmenistan. All dogs and cats must be accompanied by a certificate of good health, bearing the seal of the local board of health and signed by a veterinarian. The certificate must be issued not more than 10 days prior to the animal's arrival in country. A valid rabies certificate is also necessary. Pets are not allowed in the local hotels.

The national currency is the Manat, which circulates in 20, 50, 100, 500, 100 and 5000 denomination notes (a 10,000 note may be introduced shortly). Exchange is about 5,200M=US__BODY__ (January 2001).

The government exercises strict controls over import and export of Manat and foreign currencies.

Dollar transactions are permitted at the banks, hotels, airlines, phone company and some restaurants. All other merchants are required to accept payment in Manat.

Credit cards are not accepted at most local hotels or restaurants. Turkish Airlines will accept an American Express Card or Visa Gold Card as payment for a Turkish Airlines ticket to Istanbul.

The metric system is used in Turkmenistan for all forms of measurement.

Disaster Preparedness

Turkmenistan is an earthquakeprone country. Building practices within Turkmenistan do not generally meet U.S. seismic standards. In addition, local authorities do not have sufficient resources to respond to a large-scale disaster. American citizens traveling to Turkmenistan are encouraged to register with the U.S. Embassy Consular Section. Registration can assist the Embassy in quickly contacting American citizens during an emergency. General information about natural disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) at http://www.fema.gov.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan.1 …New Year's Day

Jan. 12 …Memorial Day

Feb. 19 …National Flag Day

Mar. 8…Women's Day

Mar. 21…Novruz Bairam

Apr. 6 …Drop of Water is a Grain of Gold Holiday

Apr. 27 …Horse Day

May 8-9 …Victory Days

May 18…Revival and Unity Day

Oct 6…Remembrance Day

Oct. 27 …Independence Day

Nov. 17…Youth Day

Nov. 30…Harvest Holiday

Dec. 12 …Neutrality Day

…Ramadan^*

…Id al-Fitr^*

…Id al-Adha^*

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